On the Camino there are several options for overnight accomodations... in larger towns... in smaller towns and rural areas, the options are limited. Albergues are typically the pilgrim's lowest cost option. Albergues exist to accomodate pilgrims during their pilgrimage. Some are run by churches, some by the local government, and some are private.
The Albergues run by churches and by the local authorities tend to be more restrictive and rudimentary, however they often still offer meals with the price of a stay. Not always though. Albergues typically do not accept reservations, so it is first-come, first served in most cases. This situation, along with the increase in the number of pilgrims hiking The Way, makes for something of a competive environment... unfotunately.
Other options include hostels and hotels as well as private rooms rented by individuals. Hostels will generally take reservations and cost a minimum of 10€ more. They are similar to albergues but usually offer towels and sometimes even soap! :-) People vacationing as well as pilgrims may be found at hostels, whereas albergues are strictly for pilgrims. Hotels are an option when hostels and albergues fall-through. Double the price, but get a tinnie-tiny private room for 50+€.
Pilgrims have been hiking The Way for a thousand years. That is something to think about... Over so many years one would think the infrastructure for supporting pilgrims would be pretty well established and supportive, but no. I am hiking The Way at the tail-end of the 'season.' For this reason, I should be experiencing less competition rather than more, but that does not seem to be reality.
I was up before dawn this morning and hiking by 6:30am, that is early even by pilgrim standards. My companions opted to sleep-in an hour or two longer and begin hiking at first light (seems logical, right?). Being up as early as I was means skipping any hot breakfast at the albergue or a local cafe. Most do not open or serve food until 8am. I had cold cereal (bought at a market the day before) and skipped the tablefull of bread left out for the pilgrims. (The albergue equivalent of a continental breakfast).
I was hiking two hours by headlamp before it was light enough to see. I hiked straight through and only stopped briefly for a cup of coffee at 9:30am. I ate snacks out of my pack for lunch and kept pressing forward. I left from Arcade and was shooting for the albergue at Portela/Barro 22+km down The Way. It has 16 beds (8 bunk beds) dormitory-style.
During a snack break, I was passed by 8 pilgrims. Don't know their destination, but just seeing this creates a sort of anxiety when knowing there is a limitation on the beds at the albergue I am headed for. In today's case, there is nothing else for 10km in either direction, so I didn't want to lose out. I scarfed my snack and pressed forward.
I arrived at the albergue at 1:15pm. I was first there. I chose a bunk before the attendant arrived. When he did show-up, I paid 15€ for my stay, dinner, and breakfast. Within a half hour two more pilgrims arrived. Within an hour 8 more, and by 3:30 the albergue was nearly full and sending pilgrims outside to an 'overflow' area to sleep.
My companions have not yet arrived, and I fear they may be sorely disappointed in the available accomodations by the time they arrive. They have been using 'Booking.com' most days to reserve a place to stay rather than take a risk of not getting a bunk. Not a bad way to go when something can be reserved. In today's case however, there was nothing....
Albergues open for registration between 1pm and 6pm. It varies greatly. The process when you arrive (assuming the attendant is not around...which is not uncommon), is to pick a bunk, maybe shower, wash clothes, or do other chores until the attendant arrives. When the attendant arrives, you check-in. This involves giving them your passport for registration, getting your pilgrim credential stamped, and paying for your stay/meals as you elect.
There is usually a wash-tub designated for hand-washing laundry and a rack or line to dry clothes,, but not always. Clothes pins are generally NOT available. For this reason, carrying your own line as well as clothes pins is a good idea.
Inside the albergue there is sometimes snacks, beer, and wine available for purchase through the honor-system with a bin for payment on a table or wall.
Here are some additional highlights at an albergue and/or local cafe:
Mattresses: Every mattress I have encountered in Portugal and Spain has had the cushioning of a box spring rather than a mattress. Hard. Every last one. The exception has been when I was forced to sleep on an alternative mat or foam pad. They have been much more comfortable!
Bed Bugs: a common problem on the Camino, these nasty little critters hide in mattresses and Feast on you during the night. For this reason, we bring Permethrin treated bed sheets to cover the mattress regardless of what condition it appears to be in. We also spray our sleeping bags and backpacks with prevent to the critters from getting inside.
Bathrooms: Often the door does not lock. Sometimes there is no seat either. More often than you might think. I guess they feel the seat is redundant. You are lucky if there is toilet paper (better to have a stash with you), it is even less likely that there will be soap and paper towels. You are on your own!
Fire Safety: Not something you might normally think about, but in some hotels and hostels, they lock the door at 10pm. You cannot leave until 7am when the attendant finally decides to get up. Very unnerving to think you have no way out in the event of a fire or other emergency.
3:30PM Update: My companions arrived in the nick of time. They got the last 4 top bunks in the dormitory. Other pilgrims have been steady arriving and are being sent out to the 'overflow' sleeping area... mattresses on an open floor area in another building.
6:00PM Update: The albergue and overflow areas are full. Pilgrims are still arriving and being sent away...
7:00PM - I have lost interest in writing
Jerry and Dave outside our Albergue at Al Priate
Wash tub and clothes line behind Dave & Jerry
Pilgrim meal - family style at Santarem
Walls of our Hostel in Tomar
The bathroom in our Albergue in Grijo
Outside sitting area at Albergue Grijo
Our hostel (garage) room in Carreco
Our Carreco host cooking dinner
Pilgrim dinner in Carreco
The Carreco spread
Our Albergue in A Ramallosa - A converted monastery
My 'Habit' in A Ramallosa
Pilgrim Breakfast at hostel in Arcade -Bread
More bread options at Arcade hostel
The rest of the pilgrim breakfast in Arcade
(Bread & marmalade are typical. If you are really lucky you might get a single slice of processed ham or cheese)
Portela/Barro Albergue
I chose the far bunk - lower level
3:30pm - 2 hours after I arrived
Boot rack upon arrival
Boot rack later in the afternoon
Shower/Bath hall
Living area at Portela/Barro Albergue
Pilgrim meal at Portela/Barro with 40 pilgrims
